Reloading Slugs

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Reloading Slugs

Post by Reload3006 on Tue May 31, 2011 9:57 am

Ok everyone let me start off by saying that I have loaded very few slugs and very few buck shot rounds.
we need to keep in mind here that shotgun shell reloading is very volume specific. SO first off weigh your slug if you have the type of slug that is intended to be fired from a rifled barrel you can do ok with the sabot approach these slugs look like a big pellet gun pellet on steroids. they load pretty easy with just dropping them in a petaled wad. the rifling on your choke will spin them and should stabilize them enough. Remember Shotguns aren't supposed to be long range guns. But with the new rifled barrels and the new slugs the range is stretched pretty good.

If you have a slug that is rifled you have a few options. You can first go to BPI and order their wad that has no petals or you can get cheap like I do and cut the petals off the wad. Or you can use fiber wads like they used to in the old days. As long as the weight of the slug is correct you can just crimp it in like its a shot shell. will work just fine. they dont have to be roll crimped in I have to admit that the roll crimp looks kewl but it is not necessary.

If you happen to have the roll crimp set up you can load shot with them too by putting an over the shot card in. and then roll crimping it in place .. of course that isnt telling anyone that roll crimps anything. basically whether you roll crimp or fold the shell down with the regular crimp the idea is to keep the components contained.

Now I do caution you the only thing you should be substituting from the manuals data is the wad and crimp type and hull brand. IF the recipe calls for herco powder USE HERCO POWDER at he weight of charge that is in the recipe. I usually dont worry too much over brand of 209 primers either but EVERY ONE SHOULD TAKE THIS AS A GRAIN OF SALT AND APPROACH WITH CAUTION. like in rifle loading start low and work up.

1) read Lymans shotshell manual
2) read alliants manual
3) read hodgdons manual

I Highly recommend Widerladers videos I believe they are posted here on the Utube section.

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Re: Reloading Slugs

Post by scorge30 on Wed Jun 01, 2011 10:51 am

I used to roll crimp quite a bit, both non-tox shot and slugs. Once you get the roll crimper warm it goes pretty smooth.

I used my drill press which makes quick work out of roll crimping a few hundred hulls.

One little trick I learned is to use a propane torch to pre-warm the roll crimper when you are starting out. It keeps from having to press too hard on the first few to warm the tool.

Just do not over heat the tool and be careful as you have an open flame near loaded shot gun hulls. Disaster could happen if you are not careful.

I usually warm the tool a little too hot to touch - and then bring the loaded hulls to the drill press after extinguishing the propane torch. Having an open flame over a few hundred loaded hulls did not seem prudent to me.

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Re: Reloading Slugs

Post by hawcer on Wed Jun 01, 2011 11:11 am

scorge30 wrote:

Having an open flame over a few hundred loaded hulls did not seem prudent to me.

Come on , where is your sense of adventure? Try welding or using a cutting torch less than 6" away from a fuel tank! Shocked


It looks like I'm gonna have to find me one of those roll crimping tools.

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Re: Reloading Slugs

Post by scorge30 on Wed Jun 01, 2011 1:55 pm

Once you get the hang of it - the roll crimper does make some nice hulls.

Although I have not noticed any measurable difference in performance between roll crimped and fold crimped hulls, for purly aesthitics, the roll crimped hulls do look better.

I also find that using a magic marker (i.e. Sharpie) to mark the flat disc on top of the roll crimped hulls makes ID easier and keeps you from taking tox shells into the goose pit.

BPI sells a stamping kit to ID your hulls, but I have found that a cheap lettering kit from an office supply store works just as well. I stamp either the weight of the slug or the size of the shot on the over shot card for easy ID.

I use black ink for tox loads and green for non-tox waterfowl or California-approved non-tox slug loads for feral hog.

BPI is now selling ITX shot in large enough sizes to make some serious feral pig load to use in the CA Condor Protection area which is most of the lower half of the state.

I love to roll crimp, even though it is slower. Evil Bay used to have some used roll crimpers cheap, and every now and then you might come accross some of the old black powder tools that might include a roll crimper.

I prefer the vertical newer roll crimpers clamped in my drill press, rather than the older crank BP tools that were mostly horizontal and designed for paper hulls.

As much as I would love to own a fine BP fowling piece, and load paper BP hulls for it, I just do not have the space and time for a whole new collection of loading tools.

I think it was a recent edition of Handloader that had a whole article on handloading BP 12 ga paper hulls. Also talked about collecting the required tools to load BP paper hulls. Many of those tools could also be used to load roll crimped plastic hulls.

Every now and then the swap meets has someone selling a whole box of old loading tools. Sometimes the person knows vaguely what it is sometimes they do not.

I think I paid like under $25 for my new steel roll crimper from BPI. I also got the steel expander that needs a little warm up with a torch to remove the old crimp from the hulls.

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